A Lovely Day in Lipari

I was excited to spend a day exploring this hidden gem of an island and one that I never heard of before this trip. It was a quiet September morning when I stepped ashore as most of the summer crowds had already gone home. I felt like I had the island all to myself.

Lipari is a small Italian island in the Aeolian chain off the coast of Sicily, built upon layers of history with ruins scattered throughout the island.

This would be a great slow travel day on my own, to just wander and soak in the Italian autumn ambiance.

Coming ashore in mid-September, it was apparent that tourist season in Lipari had ended. Many of the small shops were already closed for the year. Some cafés remained open for one last hurrah of tourists. 

Setting Out to Explore on My Own

The island had some rough beginnings after the Greeks settled Lipari around in 580 B.C.E. Over the centuries the island changed hands many times, including Arabs, Saracens, and later the Normans.

Today Lipari is firmly Italian and very popular in summer, when visitors nearly double the island’s population of about eleven thousand residents.

City map in hand (just in case), I had the most wonderful day simply wandering through this ancient city, up and down centuries-old cobblestone streets and alleys. Tiny shops lined the narrow streets leading away from the horseshoe-shaped harbor, some barely wider than my outstretched arms.

And so I found one of the few shops still open for business. As I was meandering and window shopping, one tiny store caught my eye.

And a Magical Moment Happened…

Dangling from a hanger on the narrow open door was the most striking poncho I’d ever seen. A light woven wool, in various shades of blue, red and orange, this definitely had my name on it. I checked the price tag and it was well out of reach for my budget.

I entered the shop with a polite, “Buona sera” and received the same in return. Turned out that the store owner, Ingrid, was from Switzerland, and spoke perfect English. Her daughter goes to Paris as the store’s buyer. That’s why the poncho was pricey…it was from Paris.

Ingrid could see that I loved the colorful poncho but I passed it by. Over on the counter was a very unique necklace that looked like an adult-size teething chain. Strung together with a thin filament were 18 odd-shaped plastic nuggets, each a different color. Also from Paris. And the price was right.

Carefully, so as not to bump into the other garments, I brought the necklace to the counter to pay. I told Ingrid how much I loved the poncho and joked that maybe someday I’d come back for it.

I paid for the necklace and started to gather my things.

Then Ingrid smiled and said the poncho was mine and that she would wrap it up for me.

I nearly burst into tears. Who does something that kind to a stranger…let alone an American tourist? After I profusely thanked her for her generosity, I left the store with two shopping bags.

Moments like this remind me why I travel the way I do.

A Little Background Story About Lipari

Lipari is now part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes all of the Aeolian islands.

From the harbor I began the slow walk uphill toward the old part of town. The streets narrowed as I climbed and a view of the water gradually opened up behind me.

Near the castle I found the Aeolian Archaeological Museum. Filled with artifacts that go back thousands of years, they help to tell the island’s long story.

When I walked back toward the harbor, only a few places were still open. A couple of cafés had tables outside and a handful of small shops were still welcoming late-season visitors.

I finally found the staircase leading to the Cathedral.

Considering that the Greeks colonized Lipari about 2500 years ago and that there are still performances held at this site, is remarkable.

Back on the five-masted sailing ship, our captain gave us a ride through the Aeolian Islands that make up this archipelago. One of the nearby islands, Volcano, has only about five hundred permanent residents who live in the shadow of the volcano.

Not many cruise ships stop here, which helps to preserve the island’s charm. When the tourist invasion begins each year, it’s mostly wealthy Italians plus some Greeks and Russians. Flying into Sicily, tourists can hop aboard ferries and high-speed hydrofoils that connect to all of the Aeolian islands.

Days like this reinforce why I prefer my slow travel life, never flying or rushing from place to place. I would love to return to Lipari, just to wander a little more and try a couple of restaurants. My only regret was not having enough time to sit, taste, and enjoy a meal.